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The
most westerly inhabitable bay, one of the most
impressive points of the island, and one of the most comfortable places in
the world for the traveller, it is easily reached from Lymington, with the
ferry landing us at the delightful little harbour of Yarmouth. From the
windows on the bay we look across to the mainland with Hurst Castle in good
view by day, the lights of Bournemouth by night, and with clear visibility
the white cliffs of Swanage in sight. Many great liners pass this way.
A little way off is Alum Bay with the coloured sands
which every child loves and the near view of the Needles, and within an easy
walk is Tennyson's Down, the house where he lived, and the church with seven
memorials of his family and the grave of his wife. The 19th century church
has little for the traveller to see, but the all-red church of St Saviour's,
built by the Roman Catholics, is delightful, with its walls of neatly
patterned brick, its elegant tower, its projecting baptistery, the five
arches along its west front, and an interior with three big and three small
bays, half-moon windows in the sanctuary, and other windows shining with the
Madonna, the Good Shepherd, and saints. Hereabouts is Weston Manor, with a
private chapel built by the theologian William George Ward, near neighbour
and great friend of Tennyson, who thought him among the "most worthy of
mankind," whose living like he would not find again.
Not far from Totland Bay in the last years of last century the first British
wireless transmitting station was set up by Marconi. The first readable
signals were exchanged with a steamer at sea on November 6, 1897, and in
June of the following year the first paid Marconigram was sent from this
station by Lord Kelvin. The station has entirely disappeared, but a granite
memorial has been set up to mark the spot on which it stood. |